Crimson Mornings on Oyster Bay

Every morning, here in Dar Es Salaam I get to pray and meditate and watch, not the sunrise, but Oyster Bay glow, emanate, reflect, absorb the crimson haze of the sun rising from the other side of the Peninsula.

Having a home facing west has really taught me that I have been missing the nuances of dawn - The subtleties of the morning. 

No longer am I blinded by the bright white of the sun climbing, reaching up over the clouds striking the sky with verdant clashes and clangs of color - now I am allowed to be wide-eyed, open-eyed, allowed to see the morning stretch and yawn, witness the bay lap awake, birds are not swooping, flying startled from the brightness of the rising flames of the sun, but instead birds are wending their way along the shore fetching their morning snacks as I drink my coffee, as I watch the pink haze of morning warmly greet us on the west-side.

.

Humble Pie

The Magic is all around us – I know this. I bear witness every single day. It would be a miracle if it were once or twice or even three times a lifetime, a YEAR! But no every day – the miracle of love and life and faith reveals itself to me, to us, to humanity constantly.

And whist I acknowledge all that is bad, evil, violent, “wrong,” in the world today, in our time, in our past, and all that is BAD that will happen tomorrow – I ACCEPT all this is good, I recognize all the love, I hear, listen, see, feel, and BELIEVE all that is faith driven, that is HOPE filled, and I am humbled by  all the humans who strive to make today TODAY a better moment, life, experience, for someone, everyone, ALL “ones,” ALL ONES.

And how is it – how IS IT? That as selfish and self FULL and SELF focused as I, how is it – that I am CONSTANTLY blessed BLESSED to bear witness to such love

And the story goes….

After a week of adventure and friendship and LOVE and family my sister friend left today, off she went to enjoy her weekend with her sister on the coast of Kenya. And sad was I, sad, lost my friend to the time allotted us, and she is off and out until we meet again in Windy City.  Pouting, yes pouting, through market that we shopped every day for dinner, and discussed meals and memories and future memories and all that is beautiful with Nairobi, and Kenya, and Kenyans, and Life…I pouted…

I decided to treat myself to lunch and a drink, at the same table and the same café where one week ago we sat and I welcomed her to the magic of Nairobi….

As I got to “my table,” the half inside/half outside table, the table I sit to breathe fresh air but not be seen, yet I know it is on the sidewalk so everyone does see me, MY TABLE, I noticed a woman sitting alone at the next inside table, American I presumed by her dress and high lights and make up. I gave her a glance but no eye contact – none – dropped my bags, pouted my order to Arnold, the server, and left to wash my hands.

Upon my return the American woman engaged me (of course she did she is American), she had figured out that I was sitting at “my table” and I was most probably a regular – sigh, I thought: can I not just pout alone, can I not just be pouty and not have to listen to some expat go on and on about something or other – no no, NEVER ….Lutheran Guilt sets in…without introductions, WITH curtness and weariness I invite her to my table - she jumps and scurries over to sit across from me – of course she does, I think to myself OF COURSE SHE DOES...

After niceties and all I am banished to that place where all those like me must sit and eat humble pie and wear a dunce cap, the place where surely I should be chained, the place that I have frequented so much in my lifetime my name is engraved on a brass plate to mark my particular corner where I time and time and time again I must learn to expect goodness and not promote the cynicism of a false reality, that everyone is annoying and I should be left alone….

I ended up in my corner, because this woman accomplished more in her 40 years on the planet than most people accomplish, this woman truly was an example of HERO.

I promise you, I tell you not enough to convince you but you must believe me, and she spoke with humility and excitement for her work…. the more I CRIED the more she knew we were of “like minds,” and she told more of her story, her beautiful story. She showed me pictures of her husband, her children, described her life in such detail I kept looking away to hide the tears – such a magical BEAUTIFUL authentic lovely intelligent daring faithful HUMAN.

She told me how she decided instead of working in the publishing world, she started volunteering at a hospital in Brooklyn, NY and was struck by the plight and heartache of pregnant refugees and immigrants who were alone, confused, unable to communicate in English, scared, nervous – she became a patient advocate, she decided to look after women during and through their pregnancies. (did I mention she has several degrees including an MBA?).

Among many things she started the first men-who-have-sex-with-men HIV prevention program in West Africa. Yes, she did! In Togo…and the story – the story! How did I get to meet this woman?

Currently she is leading a project for sexual health/family planning at Universities here in Nairobi. And that story reminded me of my work with After School Matters back in Chicago and Advancing Youth Project in Liberia. She had AMAZING anecdotes regarding her work and how youth were responding to “life planning,” and building plans for their futures.

I could NOT get enough I could not. Inspired, Grateful, Love, this HUMAN – how could I not be overwhelmed with her passion and spirit….oh and a Wife and a Mother! Oh yes. And her love was real – oh she showed off her husband and talked of HIS good work as if she was just going about her day.

Just beyond lovely – beyond intelligent and “worldly,” and sensitive, and invested in HUMANITY.

So small SO small did I feel sitting in that corner.

So yes – I insisted she put me to work – paint walls, listen to students, find a way to utilize my skills to aid her project – and I would not take no for an answer.

All of that to say – ALL of that to say: There is GOOD NEWS. THERE ARE GOOD PEOPLE. WE can hold EACH other accountable. I believe that – I believe in some way this woman, as a member of my community held me accountable and said, yes YES we all need to be doing good work.

So I am committed - in honor of my fellow American, in honor of my fellow Human – to get back to doing the Good work and spreading the Good news and holding myself and my fellow humans accountable.

God Bless all those humans in the world doing the Good Work for no awards, credits, accolades, articles, etc….working towards Good for the sake of us ALL, All us Ones.

PS. Somehow she bamboozled me and paid for MY lunch – yea, that happened – I am stuffed on Humble Pie.

Twitter Tweet Morning: At Home in Nairobi

Waking up this morning reminded me, once again how small I am, how I am just one among many.

Waking up this morning reminded me, once again that there is something bigger than me.

Waking up this morning reminded me, once AGAIN, how beautiful the world is around me, next to me, above me, beside me.

What an amazing summer back in the States - just blessed and full. Full of love and family and friends and new experiences and old experiences made new again. And yet arriving home to Nairobi seemed so natural, so comforting, so warm despite the chill in the air, so satisfying, so loving. Yes it is good to be home to see my partner, to see my friends, to see home.

The welcome home weekend was full of course, catching up, staying up, drinking up!

It all has to end though, yes? He has to travel for work, friends must return to their responsibilities, and I must prepare for my week. And yet Sunday night as full and sated as I was - I could not sleep...I was full of energy - wide awake. I questioned myself: anxiety? no; hungry? no; cold? no; time change? maybe, no. Sigh. All night positing why am I awake...of course only to fall asleep at some hour unknown...

The blessing arrived though...through all the questions, all the wondering...I have been taught again and again, AND again. LISTEN. Stop filling the quiet with questions and LISTEN.

Waking up early, waking up before the sun seems sometimes, presumptuous and rude. The sun is not up and here I am wide awake - eyes open under my eye mask, trying to fool myself maybe that I am still asleep...but no I am awake. I feel my heartbeat, I feel the warmth of my bed, I feel alive.

Still it seems rude, I know it is early, it is dark the sun has yet to rise and I think...is God awake? Is it not rude to be up so early....and then I hear the waterfall of sounds, knowing I am truly awake...and then I DO feel rude presumptuous, an interloper of the morning - of Gods' time.

The sounds of birds. The irony that I live in an urban city, filled with all things urban, high-rises and highways, trucks and workers, airports and cars and all things that make a city thrive and survive.
But I only hear birds.

long tweet tweet
quick twitter twitter
hoot
wha wha
tweet
whoooo who whoo
CAW CAW
twitter twitter
warble
hoot

I lay real still. I giggle and wonder why? The birds can't see me in my home. The birds don't even know I exist - I wouldn't know they were even in the trees if it weren't for their morning symphony.

Maybe it is I CAN'T move - I am overwhelmed that I am allowed to hear this concert = this performance. Announcing the coming of the Sun! I try to focus on a single tweet or warble - I try to find a rhythm, it so thick it is hard to know who could conduct such a beautiful morning. I know Who.

And then I hear a neighbor stir, maybe they are just getting out of bed to make their coffee, maybe they are late for work, maybe they too have been up before the sun listening in to the same concert as I.

My neighbor though, does not add to musicology and I focus back on the sounds

twit
tweet tweeter
hoohoo WHO
warble warble

I keep reminding myself I live in a city - a true urban jungle, eh? In Chicago - I wake in the morning and wait for the sun to rise over the lake - but all I receive is silence...silence. No birds, an occasional EL passing by, surely no birds. I watch for the sun and I hear the sounds of the morning through color, yes?

Here in Nairobi, I smile and lay still, I give thanks, I pray for a good day, for health, and Peace.

I begin to wonder how do the birds know when to start their morning symphony. Where does this waterfall of sound begin.

Cock-A-DOODLE-DOO!

And then the sun. I giggle. I laugh. There is a happy, proud announcement!

COCK-A-DOODLE-DOO!

The SUN!

The day has begun.


 

Humming Bird Tour: Kansas City

Yea, certainly this sculpture outside the Kemper Contemporary Art Museum, Tom Otterness' Crying Giant, portrays my feelings about Kansas City.

Seriously, not sure what is up with this town - but I overstayed my welcome for sure! Of course, when I saw this sculpture - I knew I was not alone: how appropriate a MUSEUM would place this image on their front lawn: FORESHADOWING of what was inside!

Poor curating from the get-go. But who am I to judge. Oh wait.

Inside was probably the worst space I have ever seen to install art - I have seen better studio/gallery spaces in the back alley's of the OKC stockyards. Not sure who what why - but my head was hurting - also the museum was extremely frigid - are you feeling my opinion about this museum, let alone Kansas City - unfortunately there was some good art crammed in awkward rooms - and yes I will mention the incorrect spelling of an artists name (prominent artist) on the tag next to his work. Yes I did call the Museum and they seem offended at my polite recommendation to correct the wall tag to not offend the artist let alone, guests of the museum.

Alas,  you can head over to the famous Nelson Atkins Museum, the building/s are much more inviting - sometimes, but really I won't go on too long. If you are stuck in Kansas City, MO for work (I'm sorry) but then you should run down if the weather is good, and check out the beautiful sculpture park - Not the most progressive collection of outdoor sculpture - but a good sampling of recent art history.


If you are so unfortunate as to be in KC this summer - THEN you will want to check out Brad Kahlhamer's Bowery Nation. Truly a wonderful installation. And how exciting to portray a First Nation artist who blends his culture with experience of living in downtown NYC. Kemper Link to Kahlhamer's Bowery Nation.

If you are hungry - I will admit the Museum's cafe, Rozzelle Court Cafe was actually pretty good food. Warm and contemporary with vegetarian options.

Now don't stay long check out Bowery Nation - take some snap shots and RUN to ...

                                                                 The Nerman Museum!

The Nerman Museum is located on Johnson Community College, Overland Park, KANSAS! Not Missouri, Not Kansas City - Kansas! On the Campus of a Community College. And this THIS is what contemporary art is all about - Overland Park - should be a very proud community for housing such a progressive institution of fresh, local, contemporary art. You will see this building, stone cold slab, and yet WANT to go inside, there is a dynamic lights sculpture on the exterior that beckons your entrance.

This small, succinct, and purposeful museum has it all! Truly a place to watch and monitor if you are a fan of contemporary art outside of the coastal realms of east and west. Yes art is happening in flyover states too!

There is even a swank shop a la the Phoenix Museum of Contemporary Art, where you can actually BUY art made by local contemporary artists. LOVE THAT. And if you were as lucky as I, there will be artists hanging out in the shop to chat you up. Bonus. One stop shopping: Curatorial Smarts/Purchasing/Discussion.

My Purchase from the Nerman Museum Gallery-Shop
ps, THEY SHIP! 

Really worth the drive.

Speaking of Kansas I have one word: TOPEKA. This is the place!

Did you know Topeka was the "home" of Brown vs. the Board of Education - no me neither.

Yea, who knew, a National Historic Site! If you want to know more about it here is a link to the National Park Service.
'

Really a bonus gift find - did I mention the people of Kansas are Super Friendly?

Maybe because Topeka has beautiful brick lined roads....? Everything is so picture perfect...

Yea - sorta fell in love with Topeka, maybe it was the friendly people, maybe it was the better roads, maybe the sun was out, maybe the people of KC, MO are so miserable it was like night and day = gosh have you ever been to the Kansas City Airport (MCI): avoid at all costs : OMG.

Seriously - I hope to never have to go back...But Kansas I love YOU!

I think I am now a Jayhawk fan for sure!

My first Contemporary Art find in Nairobi: Charles Ngatia

No, Charles Ngatia has no formal training, Yes, Charles Ngatia "gets it."

Ngatia hails from the "slum," his words. His imagery portrays his "hometown," the slum, shantytowns. The colors, the vibrancy, the people, the isolation, the insularity (yea, the insularity - of being isolated from culture, from worldliness, from interaction -like living on an island) of belonging to the slum.

Look above at this "snapshot" of the slum. It is isolated - cubes of color on a wash of sky, even the ground floats like an island. People that are faceless members of the community.  I LOVE THIS - the texture, the rawness, the INSULARITY.

Here again is another small 12" x 16" image of the slum - It COULD be an island! Are those doors? entrances? or walls....? Is this the back or front of a row? And we "know" what shanty town looks like, eh? Certainly this is a "take-away" a cut-out, and slice - providing insight that even on "slum island" there is further isolation and yes, INSULARITY.

The colors are just so brilliant used as texture to create composition, I think about Lyonel Feininger, not that Ngatia is as tender with his brush and construction - but the alignment and juxtaposition of color is so natural and intuitive  - Yes, I am addicted. Oh the dissonance of perspective - is REAL! Have you been to a shanty town? Walls, alleys, rows, roofs are all askew - there is no rules for construction - colors are not approved by a neighborhood committee.

Do you see here, the windows? Maybe interior lighting? Where are the people? Eh? INSULARITY.

Here is a larger stretched canvas. Again we see the neighborhood that is familiar to Ngatia. We know that slums are filled FILLED with people. BUSTLING with people - why then are there no people on this bright warm day? On this island - where are the people?

So here is a person - here is a member of the community. Nagtia has produced a small number of portraits like the one above. Of course, his eyes are closed. And I don't know, maybe those are onions, vibrations, the rays of the sun - or maybe waves, WAVES, as this young man is washed up on the shore on his island....

On visiting Ngatia's studio, we found him working on a larger canvas, in a more detailed, and structured manner with additional components of material to create people - he has scraps of cut out lapa cloth that he is crafting people - but let is again notice that they are faceless on the street....

So excited to have met Ngatia and to talk about his work. I look forward to returning to his studio and learning more about his art! I hope you will too.

Maybe you need a new pair of shoes....

So after visiting the Bizarre Bazaar this past weekend - the one "item" that keeps on resonating with me are these SHOES:

These shoes are produced locally here in Nairobi by a small company called Tropical Muse. Whilst the owner doesn't have a website - she does have plenty of smart and snappy designs!

I truly believe she will be picked up and be a bustling success soon.

Of course she had plenty of options for women:

These ankle boots are ROCKSTAR. As you can see she has designed are shoes using what I would call
lapa cloth: Images of lapa cloth .

The designer, Tina Masese, uses newly made soles, produced here in Nairobi. The construction is handmade, well made, and extremely durable. These shoes are even washable!

The shoes are competitively priced at almost $50 US. Not bad for a hand-made, original design shoe!
Ms. Masese's shop also does made to order shoes! So if you don't see what you like - you need to ask!

Dreams do come true and I look forward to wearing my new pair of Tropical Muse slippers!

Tree Tomato - Tamarillo

Tree Tomato / Tamarillo

All I can say is that Vamsi and I are obsessed with the Tamarillo! And surely, plenty of you have heard and eaten this fine FINE fruit - but for me (and he) this is a wonderful new taste - and not about to deny our obsession. 

I've tried to do my research and find out who, what, where, and why. There seems to be conflicting accounts of all sorts - but the Tamarillo tree seems to have originated either in South Africa or the Andean Mountains - in fact I also found a source that roots Tree Tomatoes from Jamaica! - yea that's what I said. 

Jamaican Ancestry

South African Ancestry

Either way it again seems that somehow Dutch settlers/Missionaries either brought Tamarillo to the new world or brought it back to Africa. Either way - I am finally, FINALLY benefiting from this amazing fruit.

It does seem that New Zealand and its' agricultural industry have taken steps to "own/breed/manage/produce" this wonderful fruit. And unbeknownst to me, ironically, US is the largest importer of Tamarillos! Who knew? Maybe you!

New Zealand Agriculture Profile: Tamarillo

So blah blah blah...let me tell you - these fruits are simply amazing - they are sweet and tart and have a "tomato" after taste that is sublime!  The fruits arrive in a variety of colors from yellow, browns, and reds. they are in fact egg shape, and BEAUTIFUL.

Once they are ripe you can tell by their firmness, cut them in half lengthwise like so...

Is your mouth watering yet? Because mine is!

Next, take a spoon and scoop out the "insides." Seeds/pulp/juice and all! Proceed to eat from spoon!

MMMMM....

It is that good - and if you have had a Tamarillo, you know! And if you have had one and never shared this magic with me; p'shaw!

Here are some nutrition facts for my friends who need that kind of information:

Nutrition Info

Nutrition Facts

I have read here and there how Tamrillos are sliced and put a top cakes and pastries - and mostly utilized and appreciated as a dessert. All well and fine - but the tomato flavor really makes me want to use this fruit in a savory format.

Tonight for dinner - I scooped out and chopped 8 Tamarillos, scooped half a large Avocado (they grow them BIG here in Kenya), added a tablespoon of olive oil, half a key lime juice, and salt to taste.

Mixed, stirred and served in a small bowl, topped with toasted salted sunflower seeds! YUM!

But I found these simple recipes online! Hope you can find a Tamarillo tonight!

Recipe for relish on warmed Brie

Recipe for Tamarillo Salsa

Humming Bird Tour Comes to an end!

Mr. Pedersen on tour arriving in Waikiki last month.

Obviously a gap in my blogging:  I promise myself and you, dear follower, proper updates on all things Liberia-and-in-between to my arrival here in Nairobi.

Gosh I owe so many updates! Follow-ups! Mamie! Andrew! And gosh Alaska and Kansas City - ooh Sacramento and Salt Lake City! 

View to the south from Provo, just outside Salt Lake City.

But today: Nairobi indeed…Mr. Pedersen is in Nairobi – how blessed am I? What a wonderful and cosmopolitan city – I feel a little out of place and hope to gather my urban wits and catch up as fast as I can to this vibrant city!

Only three nights and already I have learned so much, too much – I am adjusting, acclimating, energizing, and looking forward to engaging all things Nairobi – which is A LOT, maybe TOO much!

Lucky for me, our Zanzibar-decor-inspired home is a refuge from the bustling city – a quiet and lovely spot in an idyllic neighborhood: the best of both worlds!

More to follow, as experiences are happening at a rapid pace  –  and yes I have already been to the local produce market – and since Kenya is the “bread-basket” to Europe, again: the BEST of Both Worlds!

Breakfast today: red papaya and mini bananas drizzled with local honey – YES! Oh, you KNOW that the watermelon here actually TASTES like watermelon, juicy, sweet, and fragrant: MY FAVORITE!

And yet, we will be enjoying asparagus with dinner this evening! And the list goes on I tell you – ooh tree tomatoes! TREE TOMATOES! 

Flowers welcoming me !

Humming Bird Tour: Sacramento

Tower Bridge


You know - I have been a lot of places - not enough but a lot....And wherever I go: I LOVE BRIDGES! Seriously, all kinds and every kind - you may have read a previous post about students in Liberia who put together their own foot bridge to get to school during the rainy season! I mean bridges come in all shapes sizes and COLORS!

 

 

Here is the Tower Bridge of Sacramento - seriously, IT is yellow!

 

 

 



 Tell me a yellow Bridge is not FABULOUS! And it is a vertical lift bridge built in 1933. If you want to know more check out this wiki link, Tower Bridge Wiki Link. Seriously, this bridge goes on my Favorite List!

Anyway, let me tell you: who knew Sacramento, California was so adorable! Seriously, Northern Cali is everything, everyone says it is....

Just walking around the Capital Building was so LOVELY!

It is idyllic - yea, truly - just a lovely place to wander about - there are rose gardens, cactus gardens (yes cactus gardens), and a Magnolia ORCHARD - a whole orchard of GIANT Magnolia trees - how often do you get  to wander around Magnolia Trees - stunning.

There are fountains, monuments, and memorials - I mean just so darling - and plenty of eateries and so easy to walk about.

You might even run into one of your Oklahoma Cousins ; )

So there are plenty of things to do of course - and certainly I did not get a chance to take enough photos - but this place is FAMILY Friendly!! There is OLD TOWN Sacramento! HOW MUCH FUN! There are Riverboats and Saloons and all sorts of FUN! This is def a cute weekend place to hang out! I hope to get back!

Old Town Sacramento

Another Fab Thing about Sacramento (and USA): There is a sweet Amtrak Station that takes you down the ocean side to: San Francisco! How cool is that? And yup that's what I did! gosh knows I need oysters!



Jola House Update - Place Your Orders!

Small Patchwork Bag $20 US

So many folks showed interest in the Jola House Dream Believe Hope patchwork tote bag series - I have worked with Elfreyda and the women of Jola House to take more orders this week! Jola House will be sending our orders via a friend/courier next week.

If you are unfamiliar with Jola House here is their website: Jola House . Or you can look at some of my previous posts regarding Jola House. They are still hard at work and Elfreyda is working hard to assist the women and grow their business of locally designed and handmade items!

Below are a few more items available. You will see the large patchwork tote that was real popular on Facebook, and some other items I thought folks might like.

Go ahead and email at michael.robert.pedersen@gmail.com or facebook inbox me.

Thanks for your interest and support!

Original Large Tote $35 US (Modeled by Mamie)

Simple Hobo/Sack style Bag $15 US (variety of patterns)

To carry your Yoga Mat! $25 US
 (Modeled by Mamie's son Ossie)

Ipad Cozy with zipper and Flap $30 US

So that's all for now but if you see something on their website that you have to have, let me know and I will do my best!

Coconut Water at Coconut Plantation

Mamie Update: Reading, Writing, and Math

Mamie, of course, is excelling in class at a rapid rate. She is reading, writing, speaking, hearing, "conversating" on a level that I presumed would take a year - I am so impressed.

She is so excited and I am so happy for her. She brought her books to the house and we have been reviewing her lessons daily. Her pride and self worth have increased and truly I am humbled by her remarkable sense of self value. She relates reading and writing to her value and worth and will not stop until she has accomplished her goals. She has been busy while I was away: opening a bank account, signing her own name - planning for the future in hopes of moving her family out of the city into a safer, calmer town.

In class they have started math lessons - LOL. ...oh goodness she is eager, intentional, and focused. So very proud of her. Mamie and her classmates are instructed to use pencils so they can correct their errors - Mamie has a dozen pencils we gave her all with "used-up" erasers. LOL So I went to the expat market and bought her some chunky erasers...she was pleased as punch!

I was looking through Mamie's workbooks and found the above, "capable," written in a blank area. It brought me to tears - because it was truth, written in Mamie's handwriting - Capable indeed.

Mamie's math book and a pencil without an eraser due to overuse!

The RAIN!

Oh my goodness...Everything Everyone has said about Liberian Rain is true! The "Rainy Season" is insane!

So beautiful! And really I could post photos (but the internet has been prohibitive) and well it is RAIN! Constant RAIN!

And truly - May to November: HA! It is amazing there is anything left after the rain comes - CRAZY. Of course being indoors under tin roofing only adds to the sound - the sound from the pitter patter of light rain to the constant white noise beating of the roof when the torrents descend for hours on end.

So beautiful I can't express - and tenacious at the same time - constant CONSTANT: you think the rain is over, you even see that distant star they call the sun, and there is a mist on your face  - it is still RAINING!

The more I think I about it the more it sorta spooks me - what this land would be like if not populated and "industrialized." Even with 1.1 million folks in the "metro" area - the rain still takes away the soil and the land - it is constant - and it still washes everything away leaving debris in sand along the new rivers and streams it creates. I just wonder if this peninsula would even be here if not for the concrete and asphalt covering. OUt in the jungle you hear reports and see photos of the dirt roads turning into red mud rivers - I mean FEET OF MUD -- unbelievable and so magical and natural at the same time.

Ironically, I expected an increase in bugs - but the rain even deters BUGS - mosquitoes don't have a chance since it is constantly raining! Ants and other critters are kept at bay, and lucky me I have not seen a spider since my return. But for some reason flies FLIES are abundant and here in the house we all keep a fly swatter attached to our hip like police man carries a gun.

Though these snails appear and they are just so beautiful! And so large (and local food item).

Of course the dissonance between expats and locals becomes obvious when discussing rain. Expats will drone on and on about the grey days, and the bad roads, and being stuck in their homes, and how they need to "get out" or they are going to go crazy. The constant whining from people about the rain makes my head hurt - I tend to turn it off, I empathize for sure FOR SURE - but truly most of the time expats just need something to whine about. The best really is everything still works - for those of us in the city - so there are no major dilemmas - planes still land and take off and food is still available.

In fact even more food is available because it is a big season for produce pumpkin (squash) and cucumbers, and tomatoes, and eggplant are all in season! Even litche is in season - so much goodness!

Pumpkin (squash), Paw Paws (Papaya),
and Butter Pear (Avocado)

All these items came from the Jungle!
The cucumbers are huge and tasty, love it!

And of course the Liberians have lived through the rain for the past um ....HUNDREDS of YEARS - and at least 183rd since they have been a democracy and guess what it still rains - in fact these folks have been in war with themselves for 20 years including rainy seasons! So far be it from to judge those who whine on...

Even more so are the few foreign journalists who stop by Liberia snap a few photos and talk to some expats and then create opinionated articles about how the government is not doing enough - I am sure, proper roads benefit everyone...

Here is a post from the economist - and as much as I enjoy the economist I was discouraged by this post - truly I tell you spirits are higher here than this post portends...

economist blog post

And yes eggs may be 50 cents out in the countryside - but why is anyone delivering eggs (I believe the estimate is 80% of eggs are imported from India) along muddy roads for 14 hours anyway? There is plenty of food out in the jungle - in fact it is called the BREAD BASKET of Liberia. And yes , petrol is $9US, if I was a business owner I would raise prices and take advantage of all the expats traveling out there as well - let alone how many hours did it take the petrol truck to get to the jungle?

And yes, there are issues, rising flood waters, water born illnesses - yes, but again, the rain was here first.

So glad I got to witness the rainy season in full effect this year - luscious, tenacious, spirited  all the signs of life and that the earth and Africa are still ALIVE!

The Slow Down

All my life (even to this day) my Father will tell me to slow down. In fact, as he drove me to the airport to I asked him, "Dad, do you think I will ever slow down?"

His response was no response. That's my Dad.

Well, I do try to be conscious of things when in Liberia. Of the many things on my mind, I do think about how things can't be easily replaced, whether it be due to cost or availability. This includes medication, money, food, furniture, clothes, crystal stemware, and of course electronics.

I tend to keep my iphone in the house and my laptop well it is my only window to the outside world besides my little nokia mobile phone...

Funny how when in the States, I tend to sling my laptop around, hold it with two fingers, use it as a breakfast tray as I head to the balcony, oh I have dropped my laptop several times - shoved it in the overhead compartment - HA! Because I can easily replace it!

Oh but here in Liberia oh yes it takes a good ten minutes to get to the porch in the morning.
1. Unlock all the doors
2. Bug Check
3. Wipe away the water
4. Bug Check
5. Lock Door
6. Collect Coffee and Napkin
7. Unlock Door
8. Carry out coffee
9. Lock door
10. Collect laptop
11. Unlock Door
12. ahhhh Breakfast

Now back in Chicago that would have been a two step process with me balancing coffee, oatmeal, iphone, pad, pen, maybe a magazine and oh it is a usually a mess on the floor....!

So it's all about slowing down,...and I love it...I love slowing down - it feels so good!

There are other slowing down processes of course, there is the night time ritual slow down, doors locked, keys stowed, exterior lights on, windows locked, shades drawn, bird covered, bugs sprayed, interior doors locked, bugs sprayed, ac on, go-bag ready, shoes at door, electronics stowed, and of course ear plugs...yea that's a good twenty minutes for sure and then night time prayers and then sleep!

Slowing down my brain - LOVE IT!

Upstairs Downstairs - The Morning

If you have ever had the luxury of experiencing house staff, or if you ever worked as a house staffer, or if you ever worked in the hotel, restaurant or catering industries or even if you worked in live theatre...you know there is "Upstairs" and "Downstairs."

There is "Front of the House" and "Back of the House."

Well my mornings are a peek A PEEK into the wonderful world of "Downstairs/Back of the House" here in the Compound at Coconut Plantation.

Such a world A WORLD. Sitting here on the porch, drinking my coffee, the luxury of the breeze, the sun AND the rain, the ocean smell, the chirping birds...all very quiet the city itself is just waking up...

But so much has to happen for the city to come alive and while all the professional folks, and house owners, and expats are just waking and showering and kvetching and checking on emails - there is a flurry on the mew - a flurry of energy and movement - that one doesn't get to see if you are in the shower - a flurry that becomes still once the city awakes together and steps out the front door.

It is almost comical - almost romantic - it definitely is lovely - this flurry and it is a flurry - like snowflakes that fall and wend and just may end up over there on the fence post or here on your nose - so to the workers that prepare for our days they are scattered about - there is no one in charge - they are each set to be in charge of themselves and their duties. There are drivers who show up in street clothes and change into their uniforms in the garages or behind a tree and then realize they left their phone somewhere so they scamper about from truck to hiding place to motorbike dropping things along the way talking to other workers - until they hear their phone ring again.

There are the compound workers arriving for work, preparing before they take their places on stage - funny how they scurry in a flurry - arriving in their street clothes fresh and crisp, gardeners, carpenters, electricians, mechanics, security - looking like "man on the street" even in the rain crisp jeans and clean sneakers - white WHITE in the rain - wearing ponchos and slickers they hurry in a flurry - to place their tools, check on the generators - then head to their spots to change - I have come to realize/learn/notice that each of the men have their own "spot" where they keep/store/hide their belongings.

And then like Superman from the phone booth they return to the stage, they appear in front of the house in their uniform, crisp security uniform, ragged jumpsuits for the gardeners, old jeans and t-shirts for the carpenters - the Muslim men especially - I notice a significant difference between their personal and work clothes - Andrew takes off his hat - he won't wear a baseball cap at work.

And then they take their places - their strides MUCH slower - the flurry is almost over, the sun is brighter and the strides are slower - heads are now down and each one takes their place - whether behind a wheel barrow or the slacker carpenter who sits on a stoop - everyone is in place...

Drivers are done washing trucks, dressed, in idling vehicles waiting for their "Boss Men."

And then it happens - SHOW TIME! Front doors open! And Boss Men appear and the day begins as only some know it...

Three Months of Change

Just here a couple of days and yet - I see so many changes- and feel so many changes. In my mind, maybe it is rainy versus dry season - or maybe it is just time...but so few months and yet the dissonance is real.

Had I arrived for the first time in Liberia this week - I would think oooh how cool and wet and lush it is  here on the West African coast, alas I know better - the HOT, sweltering, sun baking days of the dry season will come again.

Had I arrived for the first time this week, I would think oh my goodness, why are all the buildings left unpainted, alas I know better- the relentless rains have washed away the paint of the walls, the buildings, especially here on the ocean side - not only are our homes and compound walls scrubbed away leaving a variety of patinas, from dingy sand cement, to colorful molds of bright greens and deep rich browns and blacks but metal doors and window grates are tinged with rust from the ocean mist.

Even the plants have changed - there are lush responses to the rainy season - grass is bushy and thick - matted and dense creating carpets of bright BRIGHT green even on this gray morning, the grass lights up the compound yard reflecting off the few white surfaces that remain - creating a green glow that is warm and inviting - stunning: it even lights up the dirt! 

Of course there are the plants that could not survive the rainy season - or the ocean mists. Small plants and bushes that could not handle the constant down pours or the salty winds and they stand like lean, twiggy, youthful soldiers in the mud - they have not given up = but they are naked, and leafless, embarrassed even - but I know - I have faith that they will return - brighter and stronger. I have no fear that they might have right now - alone and thin. I look forward to their new leaves - exciting really!

And then there are all the folks - the neighbors - they seem more focused as they hurry to their jobs, the expats, they seem a little wearier then I remember the verve of a sunny dry season has been replaced with a slow sullen energy that is visible in everyone's face and stride.

Then there is Mamie - she has lost some weight, markedly so and upon asking her about it I have come to learn - she has a boyfriend - and she wants to take care of herself for her boyfriend! 

Andrew has actually gained weight - and so then I noticed many of the working men in the compound have gained weight - in fact so much so I did not recognize them. Seems the rainy season is beneficial for the working man - less time in the field allows for more rest and less days of sweltering heat lend to more eating - so a new cycle I have learned - and yet not so much different from us in America when we "fatten-up" over winter - and try to "shed" pounds in the spring - here, here it is the natural process!

Thanks goodness I left for the rainy season - maybe if I only live "in summertime" I won't have to worry about "shedding" pounds - I may have found a new regimen!

There are some concerning changes involving my friends - some Liberians are markedly thinner - in fact one of our security men, a young man, who works nights so he can get an economics/accounting degree during the day - is markedly thinner - he was when I left quite big and strong and agile and fun and his face was youthful...unfortunately, through rainy season he contracted every disease available in Liberia - malaria and typhoid and malaria again - and other names I did not even understand. Through all this he has still been attending class and brought his grade sheet to show us: All B's except for a C in Geography. 

I will do my best to fatten him up, and even his older colleague who appears dry-season-thin, I worry about them both as rainy season ends.

I am sure there are more changes about -  but it all seems so overwhelming - there are new buildings about and old ones missing - little squatter neighborhoods just a pile of bricks and new stands on Randall Street. All in just three short months. 

The good the bad the unexpected the expected - the good news about all this change: Liberia is Alive. 

BACK in Liberia!

So a few things...

Landing at Robertsfield Airport really got me all excited - the trip seemed quick - maybe due to Brussels Airlines upgraded planes with ipads and all - so I watched a few too many movies!

But as soon as that door opened - wooosh Liberian air! YES! Ocean and Humidity and Heat and Jungle and Moisture and Cement and all of it! Loved it! I jumped JUMPED from my seat I was so excited!

Down the stairs I was a little too giddy and almost knocked over a fellow carrying who knows what back from China...but anyway I saluted the Liberian workers awaiting to tend to the newly arrived plane, as they waited misty air they smiled and waved back as if we were old friends - and I thought we are WE ARE old friends. As I got to the "terminal" I wondered would I ever get out of here LOL - gosh how long will the line be  today....

But alas - my new status as a "Liberian Resident" allowed me to "speedy" entrance - thank goodness because the line was LONG - as a Delta flight (God Speed to anyone who flies Delta to Liberia) landed before us - but here I was with my fellow Liberians on the "Resident" queue! YES! How exciting! And speedy was the service! The immigration terminal now has a CEILING! I was thrilled - the other folks in the queue were surely confused by my excitement....

Alas I entered the baggage area - LMAO - oh how to explain the baggage claim area - well it is hard to fathom - there is a carousel and it is maybe 20 yards long MAYBE and it is probably the FASTEST moving thing in all IN ALL of Liberia - I have never seen a carousel that moves so quick -

Remember those little yellow ducks at the local carnival and you had to catch one - well that is easier to accomplish!

I grabbed my luggage and BULLDOZED my way through the crowd - oh yea - completely bulldozed down my fellow residents since expats were still waiting on line! HA!!!!

Outside was my friend and the driver and WOOOSH! Away to town we went!

All the smells and the lush greenery so different compared to when I was last here...ooh the water and the swamp! YES! The smell so rich SO RICH - I think I now understand why dogs stick their heads out of car windows - HA!

All has been well here at the house. Mamie has been busy with school and is eager to learn more. Her reading and writing skills are already impressive! She has been jumping ahead and trying to teach herself math - she is quite the over achiever.

It was great to see Andrew and the garden is looking well - washed away....but he has planted many a new bush, so come this spring our yard will look much fuller!

And all things seem good -

Heading to the supermarket I thought it might rain - so I put on my rain boots - and as I left the house the house and walked the compound everyone was worried that I was heading to the jungle - explaining that I was only going to the supermarket everyone laughed (as they were not prepared for rain). Upon my return from the market in the POURING rain - I saw all my neighbors and compound staff soaking wet - and nodding to me - good thing you wore your boots! HA! INDEED! INDEED!

The local market is full of local produce - cherry tomatoes, eggplant, GIANT avocados, onions, and even local lettuce! Good welcome home!

Making a Difference! AAW-PEACE

Here is the link

The Link to Donate $5!

Heading Back!

Whilst Summer comes to an end here in the States, I look forward to my return to Liberia...

Hoping that the rainy season is waning back home in Liberia, I look forward to the smiles and the energy of Monrovia. I look forward to the humidity and bustling of the city streets. I am so excited to return to a city filled with life and hope and energy and BATS!

I miss visiting the bats - and I miss my Bird.

Looking forward to catching up with friends, the folks at the orphanage, and all the neighbors. So excited to find out what is waiting for me in the garden. Can't wait to see how Mamie has progressed with her reading.

Something magical, for all those who have been to Liberia, we know something that others don't know - we know about the magic, the history, the mystery.....

God bless the good people of Liberia, God Bless us everyone.

Orphanage UPDATE

The Orphanage is moving forward. With the help variety folks the is moving forward and has been deeded land to build a "proper" facility a couple of miles from their current "leased" location.

This new facility should help to "normalize" life for the youth, allow for teaching in a more "normal" space, and possibly additional youth to be housed.

Of course this takes planning, construction on a timely basis - and money.

The structures are under way, but with little cash, construction is hap hazard and moving along slowly.
The good news! Spirits are High and surely blessings will be revealed!

I had the pleasure of being given a tour of the facility before I headed back to the states back in June.

At this time their is no completion date for the facility and everything is very tenuous. Upon my return to Liberia in September, I hope to get an update and work with Leadership to find a resolution and create a plan of action.

Additionally we are using the additional monies raised to supply the youth with food.